Good Morning, Quilters! Today we are going to discuss the all-important topic of how to choose the right sewing machine needle size for quilting and for any sewing.
FREE SHIPPING
Before we get started, just a quick reminder that there are just three days left of our FREE SHIPPING sale ($5 off international orders) on all books in my Etsy Shop. Each book will be autographed and comes with a little treat in every box!! Use the promo code: SPRING
THREAD WEIGHT
Last week, we discussed thread weight and the fixed weight system of measurement.
Thread weight is a bit confusing, because as the thread gets thicker and heavier, the number gets smaller. For example, 100 wt thread is very fine, whereas, 12 wt thread is fairly thick and heavy.
NEEDLE MEASUREMENT
Needle size is more straight forward. As the number gets larger, the blade and eye of the needle get larger.
HOW TO CHOOSE THE NEEDLE SIZE
Needle size is determined by the weight of the thread. The heavier the thread, the larger the needle needs to be.
Choose your thread first.
Then match thread weight to the needle size. It is helpful to remember that a 50 weight thread should be paired with a size 80/12 needle. (80 is the European size, while 12 is the American needle numbering system.)
PAIR THREAD WEIGHT TO NEEDLE SIZE
If you look at the chart below, start in the middle. Pair 50 wt thread with size 80/12 needle.
If your thread is heavier, 40, 30, 28 or 12 wt, use a larger needle: 90, 100, 110.
On the other hand, if your thread is finer, like 60, 80, or 100 wt thread, pair it with a smaller needle: 70 or 60.
SIGNS YOUR NEEDLE IS THE WRONG SIZE
- Thread breaks or shreds
- Skipped stitches
- Poor tension
MY FAVORITE NEEDLE TYPE
My favorite needle type is the Topstitch Needle. It has a large eye and a deep groove in the shaft to protect the thread. I always use a topstitch needle when I’m quilting. I often use titanium needles, but I like regular needles as well.
HOW NEEDLES ARE MADE
If you like factory videos as much as I do, you’ll love this short video on how needles are manufactured.
MY NOTEBOOK SERIES
Next week, at Nora and Faye’s request, we will discuss What is a Fat Quarter and Why Quilters Love Them…
What about YOU?
Do YOU have any topics you’d like me to sketch in my notebook?
Do YOU change YOUR needles to match your thread size?
Do YOU LOVE to machine quilt?
What are YOU working on?
We’d LOVE to hear!
Happy Stitching and Doodling,
Lori
PS…All tutorials, images and information are the property of Lori Kennedy Quilts and are intended for personal use only. Feel free to re-blog, pin or share with attribution to Lori Kennedy Quilts. For all other purposes, please contact me at lori@lorikennedyquilts.com. Thanks!
36 comments
Rita Sheloff
I’d love to have your cute drawings printed out so I can reference them when picking out my needles and thread. Is there any way to make them so we can do that without having them so blurry??
Janice
What needle size do you use when using two different thread sizes ( like a 40wt on top, and 50 wt on bobbin)?
brendaintheboro
thank you for this timely ( for me) reminder. I am stitching a sort of bivy bag for when we go cycle camping for Easter. Its made of pertex, a very tightly woven breathable nylon fabric. having read your post I got out some fine polyester thread and then decided to try a no. 70 jeans needle. Thread kept snapping. I switched to a no 70. microtex needle and it is working well. Thank you
Caren
I started using a topstitch needle for FMQ a couple of years ago when you mentioned it in an earlier post. My FMQ improved a quilting light year! It made such a difference!! I just finished a baby quilt and did a different motif in each block, using many from your books. It turned out great!!
Marta
I too was “taught” to match the needle to type of fabric.. Learned a lot here today. Thank you Lori and everyone.
Rebecca Andrews
Very helpful…Thank you!
Michele Kennedy
Word of caution. According to my Bernina service man, titanium needles are more like to become projectiles when they break. If you use them, replace them regularly-well before they break. Its so easy to keep using a needle a bit longer.
LAURIE BIUNDO
Hi Lori,
You didn’t mention what size needle to use with “invisible” thread. Both nylon and polyester. Mostly I use Aurifil, but on that rare occasion I need the monofiliment I can never remember which needle to use. Thanks. Laurie
kate gypsybaker
I read somewhere that poly is the way to go for “invisible” thread…I have never used it but would
like to know what size needle to use…also, what’s the best thread for the bobbin when using
“invisible” thread? Thanks in advance, Lori!!
kate
Thanks so much Lori. My old Bernina 810 loves Aurifil 50 wt!
Lori Kennedy Quilts
I always use 50 wt cotton in the bobbin–regardless of what is on top.
Suzanne
In all the 60+ years I’ve been sewing, I’m surprised to hear “match your needle to your thread”. I learned to choose a needle based on fabric weight, so your charts are very helpful, thank you. Before becoming a quilter a few years ago, I’d never used 100% cotton thread either as I made everything from clothing to upholstery, but not quilts. This is an eye opener (no pun intended), I guess an old lady can learn new tricks and learning is something I never want to stop doing. I HAVE been using topstitching needles for some months though as I had seen them recommended on some other blog. They do make a difference.
Whenever I see fat quarters I like, I’ll buy 2 or more of each. This gives me great choices when I need just something different in a quilt accent color or binding and sashing/border options. They’re easy to manage and make cutting strips & squares easy too. But I’m careful where I buy them. I’ve wound up with a few bits of awfully cheap fabric a couple of times – the sort of stuff that shrinks right before my eyes when I spray it with starch before pressing. It was very thin too and I had to throw it away. Lesson learned.
FMQ is just plain FUN! I’m not especially good at it, but enjoy it thoroughly. Every quilt is another practice session and a learning experience. I’m currently finishing up a panel quilt for a baby. It’s a stylized graphic of a farm with animals, trees, a barn and tractor. I’m tracing the elements of it with FMQ and quickly learning how tedious it can be. However, it IS great practice, a good exercise in patience and I’m enjoying it for those reasons.
The factory video was fascinating. Thanks for including it.
I hope the spring snowstorm that just came through didn’t impact you.
Marta
Our quilting group saves all scraps and other unusable pieces of fabric for the local animal vet. They use the scraps as bedding for puppies and kittens.
Suzanne
We do too! Leftover scraps are perfect for that. We include bits of leftover batting as well, only ours go to people who make pet beds for the local SPCA.
Kay Taylor
very good info. I really enjoyed the video also; something I never thought I would watch! It was great.
Cathy
I love to quilt on my domestic machine. I love quilting with a topstitch needle and usually go with the 90 needle especially with a pieced quilts otherwise I have trouble with my thread shreding if I use the 80 needle. And I use 50 wt, thread. But with panels I use the 80 needle.
I’m loving your motifs and have started to use them. They look complicated but with your guidance and pictures I can do it!!
Thanks for all your effort and information…it’s so helpful!!!
I’m getting ready to quilt my dream big panel.
Pam
I always found it odd that when talking about machine needles, number goes up with size. But for hand work needles, it’s just the opposite.
Maureen B. in B.C.
Thank you thank you for such great info. But Lori … more snow!!!! I feel for you.
Are all your spring blooms flattened?
Brenda @ Songbird Designs
Great info! My question (due to my Pfaff occasionally skipping stitches!) do you go up a size or down a size if you are skipping stitches? I use only Aurifil for piecing and use an 80/12 needle, but sometimes I get skips which is very aggravating!! I just had it serviced and seemed to be better and then started again…argh!!! Thanks Lori! I like your new site and enjoy your posts!
Joyce Loesch
I have found that when I use a topstitch needle for my quilting with my Pfaff, it doesn’t work well at all. It skips stitches, tension is bad. I use to use a topstitch needle for all kinds of things, but no more with my new machine.
Janice L
I agree with Di, sometimes it’s impossible to know the thread weight. My ‘old’ eyes can’t see the difference between 30, 40, and 50 weight.
I do change my needle often, not just for size and type, but after using it a while as well. I usually start every new project with a new needle. I have a needle holder that lets me keep track of what needle is in my machine (size and style). I’d like to know how others keep track of needle use.
annieofbluegables
I have a tiny drawer that exactly holds the needle cases lying sideways. I’ve divided up the needles according to type (Universal, Micro, Topstitch, etc.), with dividers made from a recipe card, and then size going from smallest to largest number. When I pull a new needle, I pull the whole case, and stand it upright in the front of the drawer. Wish I could insert a photo.
Janice L
Thanks! Other than seeing the actual drawer you use, I understand your message. I need to look for a small, lidded (!), see-through container. I have some now, but they only hold about 15 needle cases – and the top comes unlatched too easily.
Angela Lamarche
Great information, as always!! Thank you. And I would just like to add that I love your new website, and I appreciate that it is not inundated with adds and pop up videos. It is so refreshing!
quiltsquiltsquilts
Thank you again for all the time you take to put these presentations together. Lots of great information to soak up!
If I had to confess, I’d say I’m still afraid of free motion quilting. I’m working up to it but it’s taking years! You make it look much more doable.
Kerry Davidson
I was a bit like that too, but one day I woke up and self told me that “I can do this”, and ever since then I’ve been just fine. I’m no expert, but I give it a go, and so far it’s all been fine. I just stick to things that I’m comfortable with. Skip meandering type stitches, they’re too hard on the brain, start with something like ribbon candy where you can get into a nice rhythm. Good luck.
Sandy
Me Too! I’m still stuck on “every last seam”. And hating that I might add. I want to do the fun stuff but my brain makes me do things in order, so..trudging through. Thanks Lori for all your wisdom!!
Dee by the Sea
So true … years! Someday I too will jump in.
In the mean time, I take in every bit of info offered in each post and have saved it for that “someday”.
REBERTA
So nice to know there are others out there like me. I’m promising myself to change the foot on my regular sewing machine this weekend so I can set it up, be courageous, and try. Lori, thank you so much for your site. It gives us a place to chat and learn from each other.
Janette
Loved the video “s and all the info on thread as well as the needles. Thank you. No l don’t always change my needle with the weight of the thread, but l will now!
Working on a baby quilt with large applique, giraffe,lion and elephant. Planning on a satin stitch around them. This being all new to me, need to figure out the type of thread that will work the best , sewing on a Bernina 750.
Di
Thank you very much for the needle size info, but my problem is how to find out what size the thread is.
As a machine embroiderer, I have countless spools of thread with no sizing on them. Colour, length, type all listed, but no detail of thickness! Any suggestions would be really helpful.
Lori Kewnnedy
Argh! I hate that! Find a spool that you are sure of–preferably a 50 wt thread like Aurifil–it’s on an orange spool. Then compare each thread to that. If it’s thicker, you can assume it is 40, 30 or 28 wt. If it’s finer, assume it is 60, 70 or 100.
I will post more about determining thread weights without the labels in future posts!
Di
Many thanks for your advice, Lori. Really enjoy reading your posts- great info.
Pam Peterson
Fantastic graphics that quickly and easily answer the posed question. Thank you!
quilter1522
Great tutorial, Lori! Love the graphics, pretty enough to print and hang up! You should add them to your Etsy shop!
Marta
Amen…. spot on my wall is waiting!
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