What Needle Size Should I Use?

April 11, 2019
Needle Size Infographic, Lori Kennedy Quilts
Needle Size Infographic, Lori Kennedy

Good Morning, Quilters!  Today we are going to discuss the all-important topic of how to choose the right sewing machine needle size for quilting and for any sewing.

FREE SHIPPING

Before we get started, just a quick reminder that there are just three days left of our FREE SHIPPING sale ($5 off international orders) on all books in my Etsy Shop. Each book will be autographed and comes with a little treat in every box!!  Use the promo code:  SPRING

THREAD WEIGHT

Last week, we discussed thread weight and the fixed weight system of measurement.

Thread weight is a bit confusing, because as the thread gets thicker and heavier, the number gets smaller.  For example, 100 wt thread is very fine, whereas, 12 wt thread is fairly thick and heavy.

 

Needle Size Infographic, Lori Kennedy
NEEDLE MEASUREMENT

Needle size is more straight forward.  As the number gets larger, the blade and eye of the needle get larger.

Needle Size Infographic, Lori Kennedy
HOW TO CHOOSE THE NEEDLE SIZE

Needle size is determined by the weight of the thread.  The heavier the thread, the larger the needle needs to be.

Choose your thread first.

Then match thread weight to the needle size.  It is helpful to remember that a 50 weight thread should be paired with a size 80/12 needle.  (80 is the European size, while 12 is the American needle numbering system.)

Needle Size Infographic, Lori Kennedy
PAIR THREAD WEIGHT TO NEEDLE SIZE

If you look at the chart below, start in the middle. Pair 50 wt thread with size 80/12 needle.

If your thread is heavier, 40, 30, 28 or 12 wt, use a larger needle:  90, 100, 110.

On the other hand, if your thread is finer, like 60, 80, or 100 wt thread, pair it with a smaller needle:  70 or 60.

SIGNS YOUR NEEDLE IS THE WRONG SIZE
  • Thread breaks or shreds
  • Skipped stitches
  • Poor tension
MY FAVORITE NEEDLE TYPE

My favorite needle type is the Topstitch Needle. It has a large eye and a deep groove in the shaft to protect the thread.  I always use a topstitch needle when I’m quilting. I often use titanium needles, but I like regular needles as well.

HOW NEEDLES ARE MADE

If you like factory videos as much as I do, you’ll love this short video on how needles are manufactured.

MY NOTEBOOK SERIES

Next week, at Nora and Faye’s request, we will discuss What is a Fat Quarter and Why Quilters Love Them…

What about YOU?

Do YOU have any topics you’d like me to sketch in my notebook?

Do YOU change YOUR needles to match your thread size?

Do YOU LOVE to machine quilt?

What are YOU working on?

We’d LOVE to hear!

Happy Stitching and Doodling,

Lori

PS…All tutorials, images and information are the property of Lori Kennedy Quilts and are intended for personal use only.  Feel free to re-blog, pin or share with attribution to Lori Kennedy Quilts.  For all other purposes, please contact me at lori@lorikennedyquilts.com.  Thanks!

 

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