Quilting Thread 101

Today’s Topic:  Ten Essential Tips for Choosing Quilting Thread

Once you understand the thread and how to choose the right quilting thread, you will notice a big jump in the overall look of your quilting–guaranteed!

Thread is to quilting as the paint is to paint! Just like an artist wouldn’t use dime store watercolors or leftover house paint to create their masterpieces…Neither should YOU pick up any old thread to create YOUR quilts.  It is worth your time to learn about the thread and then invest (over time) in the best thread available.

Design Goal Determines Thread Choice

Your design goal determines thread choice. If you would like to create texture only–use thread that is lightweight and matches the color of your fabrics.

On the other hand, if you want the motif to be highlighted–a focal motif-use a heavy-weight thread in a contrasting color. Many quilts use both to create interesting effects.

Texture Motifs-Choose a lightweight (fine) thread (50, 70, 80, 100wt) in a matching color.
Focal Motifs-Choose a heavy-weight thread (50, 40, 30, 28 wt) in a contrasting color.

Match Needle Size to Thread Weight

For all sewing and quilting, the size of the needle is determined by the weight of the thread. The heavier the thread, the larger the eye of the needle needs to be.  The smaller (finer, lighter) the thread, the smaller the eye-to prevent too much movement within the needle. Skipped stitches and broken thread are signs the needle is the wrong size.

(A similar chart can be found on page 63 of 25 Days to Better Machine Quilting)

For quilting, my favorite needle is the Topstitch needle. It has a large eye and a deep groove in the shaft to protect the thread.  Other needles to try:  Quilting, Denim, Universal, Metallic.

Thread Manufacturers

There are many excellent thread manufacturers and each company offers a variety of lines of thread. Unfortunately, there is not a consistent standard for labeling thread, and as a result, choosing a quilting thread can be very confusing.  Some manufacturers use color-coded spools for thread weight, while other brands give threads a name unrelated to fiber or weight. 

In addition, there is no standard method to weigh threads.  For example, some companies use a fixed weight (wt) measurement, while others use a fixed length system (tex). Still, others use a measurement called the number English (ne). Have you ever tried to decode a spool label? If you’re confused-this is why!  

Because of the variability among manufacturers of thread,  I recommend an inspection method for determining thread weight.

Some manufacturers use color-coded spools for thread weight, while other brands give threads a name unrelated to fiber or weight. 

 The key is to know there is a wide, wide world of threads and if one doesn’t work for you, try another brand, weight, and fiber…

Quilting Thread Fibers

Quilting threads are made of a variety of fibers and manufacturers sometimes combine fibers to take advantage of different fiber properties. Some of the most common fibers are:

Cotton-Cotton thread is made from short fibers that are twisted together.  The longer the length of individual fibers the better.  When you see Extra Long Staple (ELS) or Long Staple (LS)  on the label, expect a smooth, lovely thread and a higher price point.  If a thread is made with very short staples, it is often fuzzy and of lower quality.  This cotton is not desirable for quilting.

Polyester-Polyester thread is strong and durable and is an excellent choice for free-motion quilting.  It can be low to a high sheen and a moderate price point.

Rayon-Rayon is a high-sheen thread made from cellulose. The tensile strength of Rayon is lower than polyester or cotton and therefore it is not a good thread for piecing or construction. However, tensile strength is less important for machine quilting, and because of the range of colors, high sheen, and moderate price point, it is one of my favorite fibers for free-motion quilting.

Silk-Silk is a beautiful, strong fiber and is perfect for machine quilting.  Silk unwound from the cocoon of silkworm larvae in a long continuous fiber.  This beautiful thread is available in a wide variety of colors and weights.  The major disadvantage to silk is the price!

Wool-Wool thread is made from carded fibers from sheep.  It is usually combined with acrylic to increase strength. The wool thread is always very fuzzy and used for special effects.

Nylon-Nylon thread is smooth and slightly elastic.  It is often very fine weight and used to create texture effects.

Monofilament-Monofilament thread is a single strand of polyester fiber.  It is similar to a fine fishing line and creates an almost invisible quilting texture.

Bobbin Thread

While most sewing machine manufacturers recommend using the same thread in the top and the bobbin, that is not practical for machine quilting.  For example, we would never want to use a 12-wt thread in the bobbin.  It is difficult for the machine and the bobbin would only accommodate a small number of yards.

I recommend using 50-wt cotton or polyester in the bobbin.  50 wt thread is easy for your machine–it’s the weight most machines are calibrated for, and it goes a long way.  I also recommend using the same brand of thread most of the time.  In that way, if you have any stitching problems, you will know your bobbin thread is not the culprit.

When choosing a bobbin thread color, try to match the top thread.  Slight tension issues are less obvious when the colors match.

Cross Wound or Straight Stacked Thread

The thread is either cross-wound or straight-stacked on the spool. The cross-wound thread looks like angled lines across the spool, while straight stacked is a smooth line.

The straight stacked thread should be placed on a vertical pin with the thread exiting from the back of the spool.  It unwinds without twisting when correctly placed.

The cross-wound thread should be positioned on a horizontal pin to prevent adding a twist to the thread.

If you don’t have the correct pin option, try a thread stand.

Thread Stands

Thread stands are a great way to give the thread more time to relax before hitting the tension disks.  This is especially important for specialty threads which often have a lot of memory.

Another option is to place the thread in a large mug off the sewing machine and tape a paper clip to the machine to redirect the thread toward the tension disks.

Broken/Frayed Thread

Broken or frayed thread is usually the result of an old needle.  Replace your needle regularly.  Other causes include incorrect needle size, a burr along the thread path, and an improperly threaded machine.

Quilting Thread is NOT for Machine Quilting!

The thread labeled “quilting” is for hand quilting NOT machine quilting. “Quilting” thread is coated with wax or resin to improve strength and sheen.  These coatings may build up in your machine and are not recommended.

One Final Thread Test

The ultimate test for quilting thread is whether or not YOUR machine likes it! No matter how lovely a thread may seem on the spool if YOUR machine says “NO”–you may have to listen.

Find threads YOU like and YOUR machine LOVES!  The key to happy quilting may be compromised…(Is there a life lesson here?)

Jack of All Trade?

Remember the expression, “jack of all trades is master of none”  This certainly applies to quilting.  There is no such thing as an “all-purpose” thread.  It’s a wide, exciting world when it comes to the thread!

Your Thread Nerd,

Lori

PS…All tutorials, images, and information are the property of Lori Kennedy Quilts and are intended for personal use only.  Feel free to re-blog, pin, or share with attribution to LKQ.  For all other purposes, please contact me at Lori@LoriKennedyQuilts.com.  Thank you!

Visit my Etsy shop: LoriKennedyShop for all of my books!  They are ALL bestsellers!

PS…All tutorials, images, and information are the property of Lori Kennedy Quilts and are intended for personal use only.  Feel free to re-blog, pin, or share (please do!) with attribution to LKQ.  For all other purposes, please contact me at Lori@LoriKennedyQuilts.com!  Thank you!