Today’s Topic: The Twelve Step Set-up for Machine Quilting
Good Morning, Quilters!
The first week of school is always busy! We get the syllabus, sharpen our pencils, organize our desk, and start to doodle in the margins.
Quilting school is just the same. We get the book, make quick quilt sandwiches, organize our supplies, and start to doodle.
Today, we will review the steps for setting up the machine for free motion quilting.
Essential Machine Set Up
To begin free motion quilting, you only need to do three steps:
- Thread the machine
- Attach a quilting foot
- Lower the feed dogs
However, to fine tune the machine for the best quilting, we add a few more steps:
Twelve Step Machine Set-up for Better Quilting
Practice setting up your machine for free motion quilting so you can do it quickly. Write down or make a copy of this list and keep it in your Supply Basket along with tweezers and snips.
Most of the steps help your machine make a pretty stitch.
Twelve Step Set Up:
- Clean and oil your machine-
- Thread the bobbin
- Attach a single-hole throat plate
- Attach an extension table
- Position a Supreme Slider
- Insert a Topstitch Needle
- Attach a Free Motion Quilting Foot
- Disengage the Feed Dogs
- Activate the Needle Down Function
- Thread the machine
- Stitch a Test Sample
- Begin Stitching
Clean and Oil
Your sewing machine sews better when it is well-oiled and clean. Machine quilting generates more lint than normal sewing, so it is important to clean and oil more frequently when you are quilting. I usually clean and oil my machine every 2-3 hours of quilting or when I hear “that sound”. I can’t be more specific, but when you start listening to your machine, it will speak to you!
Thread the Bobbin
Thread the bobbin just as you do for normal sewing.
If your bobbin case has a finger like projection with an eye in it–this device increases the bobbin tension, and is sometimes helpful for FMQ. Do an experiment. Try stitching with the bobbin eye threaded and with it unthreaded to see if you notice a difference.
Attach a Single-Hole Throat Plate
Most sewing machines come with a wide throat plate to accommodate zig zag and decorative stitches, but offer a single-hole throat plate as an option accessory. The single-hole throat plate supports the quilt from below and helps the needle pierce the quilt without “flagging”. Flagging is when the fabric, distorts while the needle penetrates. The stitch quality is generally better when a single-hole throat plate is used. (The single-hole throat plate is great for machine piecing too!) If your machine has the option-activate the single hole throat plate minder. It will prevent you from stitching a zig zag and breaking a needle!)
Attach an Extension Table
Quilting is easiest when the quilt is supported on a large even surface. The ideal is to have the machine in a set-in cabinet. (For most of my machine quilting years, I did not have that luxury.) If your machine is not in a set-in cabinet, attach an extension table like the Sew-Steady table. Or, use books and boxes to extend the flat working surface.
Position a Supreme Slider
A Supreme Slider is a teflon sheet that adheres to the surface of the sewing area. It helps the quilt glide along as you stitch. It is one of the few quilting accessories I highly recommend. (If possible–try a friend’s first to be sure it works for you!) The back adheres to the surface–when it is kept clean. I usually tape the Supreme Slider to my sewing table so it doesn’t slide while quilting. (I tend to forget to clean it!)
Insert a New Topstitch Needle
There are many needle types which can be used for free motion quilting. Universal needles are fine, but my favorite is the Topstitch Needle. It has a large eye and a deep groove in the shaft that protects the thread. We will discuss quilting needles in detail in a future lesson.
Attach a Free Motion Quilting Foot
Most sewing machines come with several options for machine quilting. Look for the foot that allow the greatest visibility. I love the open-toe Free Motion Embroiderty Foot (BERNINA #24). It is not a full ring and the shaft is offset which allows the best visibility. Try the feet that came with your machine, then look for an open toe foot.
(We will discuss stitch regulators in an upcoming post.)
Disengage the Feed Dogs
The feed dogs are the metal teeth-like projections that extend just above the throat plate. In normal sewing, the teeth advance the fabric a short distance with every stitch. (The distance is determined by setting the stitch length.) In machine quilting, we want to control the movement of the quilt with our hands. In order to do that, we must disengage the feed dogs. On most sewing machines, lowering the feed dogs is a push button.
In some older machines, you may have to disengage the feed dogs by covering them with a plate or with tape.
Activate Needle Down Function
With the Needle Down Function engaged, every time you stop sewing, the needle will stop in the quilt. This is a very helpful placeholder for maintaining a smooth quilted line. If your machine does not have the Needle Down function, practice using the handwheel to place the needle in the quilt every time you stop. With practice it will become second nature.
Thread the Machine
Thread the machine as you do for normal sewing.
Stitch a Test Sample
Stitch a sample and look at your stitches.
Begin Stitching
Stitch a few small stitches in place to create a knot, then stitch a doodle!
YOU are on YOUR way!
Time Yourself
You are more likely to practice machine quilting if you can set up your machine quickly. Practice the 12 steps and keep the list and supplies all in one place. When a doodle inspires you to quilt–you’ll be ready!
Your Work!!!
I LOVE all the doodles and selfies you’ve shared at Quilting with LKQ and on Instagram #quiltwithlori #LoriKennedyQuilts #martingaleTPP
Happy Quilting!
Lori
PS…All tutorials, images and information are the property of LoriKennedyQuilts.com and are intended for personal use only. Feel free to re-blog, pin or share with attribution to LKQ. For all other purposes, please contact me at Lori@LoriKennedyQuilts.com. Thank you!
PPS…This post contains affiliate links. If you chose to purchase, at no additional cost to you, I may receive a little “pin-money”. Thank you for supporting LKQ in this way!
31 comments
Elaine Bilk
I recently received your wonderful book. Are there supposed to be any videos to accompany these lessons??? Thanks, Elaine
Lori Kennedy Quilts
I will occasionally add videos. There are some links within the blog posts already.
leslyclaireLesly-Claire
I am having trouble finding the lessons, and daily practices. I can only find the 6/15 & 6/17. What’s the trick to finding the daily posts?
Meg Harmon
Cleaning the supreme slider helps it to adhere better. I do not ta or it. But I did see it once as I did not position well. So now mine is ripped but I mended it with packing tape! My machine fits into a table so that the stitch area is level with table. Best investment! Now I position other tables on left side and back and quilt moves easily as I quilt with little drag.
Linda Neubauer
Thank you, Lori for your book and doing all this for us. Yes, your timing is perfect; we have extra time at home to focus on our FMQ skills. Your book is great and I love all the comments and information. Special thanks to Marta for sharing her song lyrics.
Marta
: )
Gayla S Lane
I have a Singer 8500Q, and it does not have a single hole throat plate. I called and asked! Any ideas on what I can do?
Linda B
Such good information Lori! Thank you so much. It is so different, though, FMQing a small sample size piece, and wrangling any sized quilt. I am working on a lap sized quilt and it is a challenge and great arm and shoulder exercise, LOL. I am not planning to ever do a larger quilt than a baby (30x30ish) sized quilt. Table toppers and mug rugs and table runners are far more doable for me on my domestic machine.
Lori Kennedy Quilts
I agree that big quilts are more challenging. It’s important to learn on small projects before tackling large!
Marta
I had to laugh at myself when I read your post. I was not going to make anything larger than under 48″ X 48′ ! Then a quilt I was working on just grew and grew ( of its own accord, mind you) and I wound up taking it to a long armer and paying to have it quilted. I made one that grew to 84 X 84 and I was ready to quit quilting. Finally it
broke my heart but I removed enough to get it down to 64 X 64. Hanging over my ironing board, I could sit in front of it and tie easily. I watched some tutorials and taught myself to “tie” it with100% perle coton. Turned out great. As Kenny Rogers sang,” Know when to hold ’em and know when to fold ’em” and I add, Know when to rip it out and not look back! Oh, and I put a TV tray next to my small sewing machine table and it supported some of the weight for me.New greatgrandbaby coming up !! Yay! and small quilts too. LOL
Helen
Those of us with drop in bobbins would have to untape and retape the supreme slider every time we changed the bobbin. I have used a supreme slider for years and have never had it slip without taping it. It’s easy to clean and you don’t have to do it often. Before the supreme slider I would starch my backing fabric and use furniture polish on my cabinet and machine bed. I would hate to have to do without it now. It made such a difference in ease of moving the quilt.
Jenni
I just dampen the back of mine before every use!
bumblebeebarb
Lori,
All set and raring to go…well actually I need to order a top stitch needle, I’ve been using a Schmetz universal.
I have choices: 12/8,100/6, or 90/14. I’m using my Brother CS6000i (very basic machine!) My only real draw back to this machine is the harp space, it’s minuscule! 5″ from the needle > and 4 1/4 ” to the top of the arch! I’ve managed a twin size and a 68″x 74″ but they were more in the lines of “in the ditch” and grid quilted. I do have amazing pot holders, and attempts at lap rugs.
Thanks for the book and this wonderful quilt a long!
Barb
Linda Rexroth
Holy Moly. I cleaned my machine and got acquainted with how to put the bobbin case back in properly. Face plate screwed in place. Took 5 or 6 times. There was an itty bitty black raised arrow on drop in bobbin case that had to line up with a dot. The arrow was DIFFICULT to spot because the case was black. Machine had computerized message that the blooming faceplate was not on and I it was screwed down. Any way, machine needed to be freed of the felt that had developed by the feed dogs. I perservered and won.
Love your new book. Great photos with text descriptions. Am going to staples to spiral bind.
Linda
Anne
Be sure to tape the supreme slider. Mine didn’t adhere to the machine and I accidentally quilted it into the quilt! What a mess plus I had to purchase a new slider. Blue tape for me always now. 😩.
gladquilts
Lori, you could not have chosen a better time to do these tutorials to build better quilting skills. What a gift you are giving to so many new and accomplished quilters. As for the spray, when I use it, I spray it on a cloth and wipe it across the table surface. Do not spray around your machine. As mentioned, it could get into places you don’t want it. Also, it does not rub off on your fabric. The slippery slider is a great purchase and will last almost forever if you secure it to the table so it does not slide under the needle and get stitched to your quilt sandwich. Not fun to have to rip that out.
Linda B
Oh my, had never thought of that possibility! Did some FMQ with the slider and lucked out that it did not move, but am putting a note on the package to add painters tape! Thank you Lori and everyone for that heads up!
Marta
My machine’s Instruction booklet says do not oil the machine because it is detrimental to the plastic parts inside the machine. Another issue, I would love to know how to adjust the tension in the bobbin,…shuttle? Is that its name? At times the thread will roll out of there as if not even touched by any tension and other times, It is very tight.
mommaquilts
I would follow what your owner’s manual says. There are differences between machines. I have a Viking that DOES NOT need oiling and will damage it if oiled. I have a Featherweight and Gammill and both of them REQUIRE oiling.
On most machines there is a small screw that affects bobbin tension. Look for it and check your owner’s manual. It most likely will address your question about the bobbin tension, whether it a bobbin case or shuttle.
Marta
Yep. Viking here too. Two to be exact. Never again.Thanks…
Mary McCarty
I use a silicone spray on my extension table instead of a slider. Any thoughts on that?
Lori Kennedy Quilts
Sounds great!
Marta
A quilt shop owner suggested that to me but I have been hesitant to try it. I thought a spray could go into places it shouldn’t. I also wondered if the spray would stain the fabric as it rubbed across it. My extension table is home made cardboard box, cut to fit machine, covered with clear contact paper and rather “slidy” already. I have a sew and steady for another machine which died a month after I bought the S & S extension. Hoping Lori can give opinion re the spray.
Marta
Diana, you just did me a huge favor !! Thank you so much! Just in time before I have a quilt to finish up. Sheryl, By any chance is the spray an automotive product?
diana
When i changed machines i took my sew steady table to a window store and they cut it to fit my new .achine. not perfect but works and cost $10.
Sheryl
I use a good grade silicone spray so it won’t harm my fabric and I spray it on a cloth and use that to wipe the surface.
Janet
Really useful check list.
Amelia Tynan
Did you enlarge the needle hole on the slider? Do you recommend doing this so the slider doesn’t get stitched?
Lori Kennedy Quilts
I did enlarge the hole–because I stitched through it! I don’t recommend doing that unless necessary–LOL!
Mely
I stitched through mine, too😀. What tape do u use to tape down the slider?
Lori Kennedy Quilts
Painters tape—doesn’t leave residue.
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