Good Morning, Quilters!
Do YOU know what the photo above is?
It’s Invisible Thread!
LOLOL
(The hardest part about blogging–you can’t tell if YOU have the same lame sense of humor that I have!?)
Last week, a reader asked about invisible thread and I thought we needed The Whole Group’s help on this one. (10,000 heads are better!)
WHAT IS INVISIBLE THREAD?
Well, it’s thread you can’t see…
When used for machine quilting, one notices texture and the motif, not the thread.
Invisible thread can be used for top and/or bobbin thread.
Usually, invisible thread is another name for monofilament thread.
WHAT IS MONOFILAMENT THREAD?
Monofilament thread is a single, (mono) extruded line of nylon or polyester. (Think of a garlic press with one very tiny hole…Press down and you create monofilament garlic-yum!)
Monofilament usually comes in two colors: clear and smoke…(Hmmm….how does that work–invisible colors???)
NYLON v. POLYESTER MONOFILAMENT
The quilting debate: Which is better nylon or polyester monofilament thread?
Advocates for nylon say nylon has a better “hand”-it is softer and machines like it better. A few popular nylon monofilaments include: Aurifil 1000 Invisible YLI Wonder Invisible Thread,
Advocates for polyester say nylon stretches too much, can be brittle and sometimes turns yellow. Polyester monofilaments include: Sulky Invisible and Superior’s MonoPoly
MY EXPERIENCE WITH MONOFILAMENT
When I first started machine quilting, my favorite quilter, Diane Gaudynski, frequently used monofilament thread for her award-winning quilts. Naturally, I experimented with monofilaments. Unfortunately, my sewing machine HATED the monofilament and I needed to have my machine serviced after using it. I was stitching on a BERNINA, just like Ms. Gaudynski–so it must have been user error. I don’t remember if I was using nylon or poly. Ever since then, I have steered clear of monofilament thread.
Whenever I wanted an “invisible thread” I used a thread color that matched my fabric. 
A NEW ADDITION TO MY THREAD BOX
Recently, I tried Superior’s new thread line, MicroQuilter.
MicroQuilter is 100 wt polyester thread and my machine LOVES it!
The thread is very fine and almost invisible like monofilament, but behaves like a well-mannered polyester!
While I was teaching at The John Campbell Folk School, several students tried it and loved it too.
OPEN LINE FRIDAY–SHARE YOUR “INVISIBLE” THREAD FAVORITES
It’s important to understand that one of the criteria for choosing a thread is: Does YOUR machine like it?
We all have different machines and we all work a little differently.
Threads that work for Diane Gaudynski do not work for me…What works for me, may not work for you…
Don’t be discouraged if a new thread isn’t working. Give it to a quilt friend and try something else!
Half the challenge (and fun) of learning machine quilting is finding YOUR favorites!
What about YOU?
Do YOU use invisible thread?
What brand? Nylon? Polyester?
Do YOU use something else?
We’d LOVE to hear!
Your Thread Maven,
Lo (the other letters are invisible)
PS…If you like these motifs and tips, be sure to check out my book, Free Motion Machine Quilting 1-2-3 or any of my Craftsy Videos!
PPS…All tutorials, images and information are the property of Lori Kennedy at The Inbox Jaunt and are intended for personal use only. Feel free to re-blog, pin or share with attribution to The Inbox Jaunt. For all other purposes, please contact me at lckennedy@hotmail.com. Thanks!
87 comments
Suzanne G.
I have some very fine old invisible polyester stuff that unfortunately is missing the label so I don’t know the brand. I DO know that it gave me endless grief when trying to use it in my 20+ year old Babylock. I’ve since tried it in my Brother VQ3000 and was VERY successful using it for both the upper thread and in the bobbin when quilting a two sided wall hanging. However, until I was finished, I didn’t realize that I’d been using a metallic thread needle which I’d forgotten to remove after working with gold and silver on a Christmas project. I’m going to make a little practice project with a regular needle to find out if it was the metallic needle that made the difference or the newer machine.
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Cant wait to hear your results!!
Mae Foster
I use Sulky polyester invisible thread in my Janome Magnolia and for appliqué I use the Microtex 10 needle. It is shiny but no holes.
Kris
I used YLI invisible successfully when I first started quilting but have since come to dislike invisible thread. Still use it occasionally but mostly end up trying to match thread or use contrasting thread as an accent depending on the look I want. I was told that silk thread is nearly invisible but have yet to try it.
kathie weatherford
Hi Lori: thanks for posting on the invisible thread. When I use YLI i found if I decreased the tension to 3 it worked better. I will have to buy some of the Superior Thread Microquilter. Enjoy your blog and skill at machine quilting.
L84quilting
Hi Lori, the short of it. I am with you. It is not the person, but rather the machine. I have not had any success with any of the ‘invisible’ threads. I did try Microquilter and it too is hard on my machines, even after much adjusting. I simply try to match my fabric as close as possible, but lots of times, I like the pop that the quilting gives to a project, so I choose thread that does that. THANK YOU for opening up the discussion.
worldpresscom986
Monofilament thread leaves little ends that are POKEY. I would never use it on a baby quilt. It might be okay for a wall hanging, but I prefer cotton, cotton-poly blend or polyester or rayon.
Linda
These threads pose risks for animals – if they ingest it it causes havoc on digestive system and since its hard to see pieces end up on floor. And if it ends up in a landfill then the ocean…I also hate using plastic products since they are not biodegradable and are a petroleum product. Not worth using these threads.
Wendy Dyhr
Wanted texture on a Santa Stocking, used Monopoly, too shines, pulled it out and used matching red thread, more work but better result.
Louise
hi loved your “invisible thread” post! I did use it for trap onto (once). But now I just use two batting so for the trap unto effect! l
Mary
I have experimented with invisible thread, nylon monofilament I believe, but never really liked it very much. My machine (Bernina) was ok with it but what I didn’t like was the shininess when the light reflected off it. Even when I used it in the ditch it was quite visible when the light hit it at a certain angle. I also don’t really like the combination of a woven cotton fabric and monofilament synthetic thread.
BrendaW
I love the MicroQuilter! It works beautifully in my 1230 Bernina when I use a 50wt thread in the bobbin. It disappears, leaving just texture!
Kerry
I recently used the monofilament thread for the first time to stabilise my quilt. I gave up after it broke so many times – in the end I used So Fine Superior thread which still breaks and leaves huge eyebrows on the back (needle, tension, work through list etc) but I mostly get a very good run with the So Fine – and Bottom Line in the bobbin.
Quite disappointed about the invisible thread, but it’s good (or bad?) to see it’s not just my machine that eats it up! Mine is a Janome MC6500.
Gayle Mitchel
I am a BIG fan of Superior Threads and have used all save the kimono silk. BUT…I didn’t know they’d come out with MicroQuilter! I fmq quite a bit and read the comments with great interest. Will have to order some MicroQuilter and give it a try! Thank you all.
Kerry Davidson
Hi there, my first experience with invisible thread was when I used to sew curtains for a living.
I had a giant reel of nylon thread, which I used only in the bobbin, speaking of which I had to be careful if I wound it onto plastic bobbins, as I broke a few by filling them too full – metal ones were much better. I used it in the bobbin on fabrics that were too hard to colour match and it was ok – however I really didn’t much like the shine and the fact that it melted if I touched it with the iron.
Now that I’m a quilter, I tried the Superior MonoPoly which is much better, but I’m still not happy with the shine it leaves.Just a personal opinion.
I now use Wonderfil Invisavil (100wt) or Wonderfil DecoBob (80wt) for applique and often for quilting if I don’t want it to stand out too much. It’s also excellent in the bobbin as it doesn’t show very much. I have at times also put the Invisafil in the top to ditch a quilt with lots of seams (like a stack and whack) and used a variegated on the plainer back – I was very pleased with it.
Susie Wolcott
Years ago I used invisible thread and loved it for everything. One of the nice features was how long the spool lasted. But I bought some new, hated it and quit. Just learned last year that I had purchased a cheap nylon that behaved like fishing line. It constantly boinged out of the eye of my needle. I didn’t realize there were different kinds. Now, I know. Bought a polyester and love it again. So my message is to try different kinds. It’s the thread, not you, if you are having problems.
Thanks for all the info about different kinds. Will give them a try.
Lynette
I meant the MicroQuilter, not the MonoPoly. 😀
Lynette
Nice to hear how much you like the MonoPoly, as I just ordered some to try out. 🙂 My machine is like yours – it HATES monofilament. Superior’s is the only one I can get it to tolerate. I’m not 100% happy with the look, though, particularly on fused applique. The thread disappears, but the holes stay open-looking, which isn’t attractive. So I almost every single always time choose a perfect-match thread (and it’s disappearing holes!), with color changes as needed, over a monofilament to do it all.
ERIN A DENNIS
My machine loves aurfil thread, I have a babylock. I like YlI too but not bottom line. I have used both polyester and nylon and prefer the nylon, it just sew better on my machine.
Kristin
Wow, it is such a wonderful thing to have some many opinions and options! Thanks, Lori for providing the chance to share kindly with each other. You set the tone, girl! And , I LOVE your goofy humor!
Chris K.
My Bernina 350 is okay with YLI invisible thread, but I prefer Superior’s So Fine and Bottom Line. Besides the shine, sometimes the YLI wants to unsew itself at the beginning and end of a seam. I really want to get some of the Microquilter, but I feel like I have to use up what I have first, and that includes a lot of the YLI.
Chris K.
I should add that I use Bottom Line in the bobbin when I use the YLI invisible, and I use Superior’s cone stand.
Lynne Stucke
I use Superior’s MonoPoly, and my machine (Viking) loves it. However, I only use it in the top; I use Superior’s Bottom Line in my bobbin. Can’t say enough good about any of the Superior threads I’ve ever use . . they are wonderful!
Terri
I have used invisible thread on a couple of quilts. The last one I used was Invisible Thread by Sew-Art International. I like it and I just went in a bought it at Joann’s; I’m such a connoisseur! After reading Lori’s post and laughing at all the puns and jokes, I want to use it more. The comments have helped me a lot too!
I do have a question. I know this is all about fmq, but has anyone tried using invisible thread for hand quilting? I am going to hand quilt my Farmer’s Wife quilt and thought it would work well with invisible quilt after what was said in the comments. I’d be interested if anyone had any experience with that?
Verna A.
I have only tried invisible thread a few times, and did not like it at all.
I just love your sense of humor!
Vivian
I’ve used monofilament thread from the beginning. I use it when sewing on a top with multiple colors when I can’t decide on one color thread that works across the whole top and don’t want to have to do a lot of thread changes. It is also my go-to thread (in the top and bobbin) when attaching bindings by machine. Done with a narrow and long zigzag (1.5W-3.0L), it looks like hand sewn but is much faster. Most of what I learned about using monofilament thread came from Harriet Hargrave’s book “Heirloom Machine Quilting” (originally published in 1987, my copy is the 1995 3rd edition) which at one time was considered the bible of machine quilting. The spools (in clear and smoke) that I currently use are by Sew-Art (a brand recommended by Harriet in addition to YLI). I do have two cones of Superior Monopoly that I bought because it’s said to be low sheen but admit I haven’t tried them yet (waiting for my other spools to run out!) I have read about both Invisifil and Micro Quilter and figured I will eventually try those too.
Harriet’s book taught not to use monofilament directly off the machine spool pin but to put it through a raised (above the spool) thread guide, preferably behind the machine so I have always done so. I have even done it as simply as setting the spool on the table next to my machine and using the circle end of a safety pin taped to the side of the machine as the guide (see Harriet’s book for an explanation of that). It also helps to use a net on the thread spool so the thread doesn’t coil off in bunches.
As someone else commented, I’ve read that you should loosen the tension when stitching with monofilament but have found in practice that you have to do a practice piece — I’ve had times when loosening worked, times when raising the tension worked better and times when no tension changes were needed. All of which probably means that depending on what fabric and batting you are sewing with and what bobbin thread you are using with it, all may affect how the thread behaves when stitching the final piece.
I have a 30’s reproduction project with lot of white open space that I have debated for the longest whether to hand quilt (true to the period) or machine quilt (faster). Then I remembered that the main theme of Harriet’s book was that you can get a hand stitched look with machine quilting by using (a good quality .004) monofilament in the top and cotton thread in the bobbin so I plan to try that when I’m ready to quilt that project.
Ryan R Young
I’ll echo this. When I followed Harriet’s directions to the letter, including using Harriet Hargrave Invisible Nylon Thread by YLI on a thread stand, I had very good results. This thread is quite fine, and has NO sheen. I added additional thread guides, and dropped the tension quite a bit and my Singer 501 had no problem with it. Ordinary cotton 50 wt in the bobbin. A quilt done this way is on my lap right now.
Harriet has a detailed discourse on WHY she does what she does that I found informative and persuasive.
Having said that, I have total respect for Superior threads, and will try Microquilter.
Linda Thompson
….and, I hunted and hunted for 100 Wt silk for my applique work on a quilt! Now you tell me about Superior 100 wt!!! ????
lswanekamp
I took a class with Karen Kay Buckley. She used invisible thread- YLI- to machine applique with a blind stitch. I tried it and it worked for me. Need to use a small microtex needle. I am sewing on a Bernina 830 Record (vintage). I use it on a cone holder.
Paula Hedges
I’m not a big fan of invisible thread, but must say it has come a long way from years ago! Anxious to try Superior MicroQuilter. And I agree, machines have their preferences of thread!
Rosemaryflower
I am enjoying reading all of these comments and ideas. Thank you so much for your blogs Lori, and all of your incredibly knowledgeable followers
quilter1522
Your photo of invisible thread is hilarious! I never liked invisible thread because it would constantly break on me. After trial and error, I learned some secrets to using it and now I love it, especially for quilting all-over designs where I want the fabrics and not the thread color to star.
Here’s what works on my Bernina 770:
Bobbin:100% 40 wt neutral cotton thread which helps grab the monofilament
Needle: Microtex 60/8
Thread tension – lower (for me, that’s 4.75 or 4.5 down from 5.5)
I use Superior MonoPoly and will have to try their MicroQuilter thread.
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Thank you! Your details are very helpful!
sunnysewsit
What a great topic, and what a tremendous amount of comments!!! I love invisible threads, and I use them a lot on applique, although I also love Invisifil for applique. I have three Bernina machines (two older ones), and each one is fussy about what kind of invisible thread I use. For me, Harriet Hargrave’s own brand of invisible thread works best on all of them along with Bottom Line in the bobbin (by Superior). I never use invisible in the bobbin.
Nancy sturgeob
I have been using Superior’s Monopoly in my Janome 6600 with a piecing cotton in the bobbin. Once broke a plastic bobbin trying to wind it with an invisible thread. It wound too tightly and snapped the bobbin into pieces. Anyway, I am making two different hexagon quilts using 1″ hexies and English paper piecing. I am sewing the hexies together with the smoke monopoly. Have basted the fabric to the paper by hand. The most difficult part is threading the machine needle. I use a tiny zig zag, and it works great. Would never have made the quilts if I had to hand stitch all the hexies together. Sometimes you have to sacrifice the hand work to actually finish a project. Nancy, Naperville, IL
capepetrel
A few years ago, I tried YLI and loved it. I was using it in the bobbin and the top of my Bernina 160 and it was fine with it.
Last year I took a class at Empty Spools from Pam Holland and she recommended using Aurifil or Bottom Line in the bobbin and invisible (Superior or YLI) in the top. It is the bottom where the invisible can melt. Also she recommended throwing away the spool about 1/2 way, because it gets kinky and curly. Mine is at about that point. Last time I used it, it was so curly, it was hard to thread the machine.
But I love the invisible for anchoring the quilt and doing any ditch stitching. I can not seem to stay inside the ditch with regular thread, and it always seems to show. So I love the invisible and have used the smoke and clear threads with great success.
Sherry Southgate
I might have missed something but….what do you use in the bobbin when using this Superior MicroQuilter thread?
Betty Yarbrough
Thanks for the laugh, Lori! Not feeling well and that was perfect med! I’ve never tried invisible thread and am very interested in info from you and all your readers. Thank you, Lori, for so much Great info!
J droz
I swore off invisible thread years ago. Just didn’t like working with it. Then my nephew brought me his well loved graduation quilt to make some repairs. The cotton bobbin thread was practically gone and the invisible thread was knotted an all pilled up on the front of the quilt. When I made the quilt originally I did not document the thread I used so not sure if the problem was poor quality cotton bobbin thread or the invisible thread cutting the bobbin thread. So the moral of the story is use your quilter notebook and document the brand of thread you use. I do this with every quilt I make now.
Anita
There is something that puzzles me about the use of clear threads. I often read that people love a brand of thread but hate the clear thread of the same brand in the same weight. They tell of having to loosen tension to prevent breaks when switching from the regular thread to the clear. But why? Isn’t polyester a polyester no matter what color it is? Isn’t a nylon a nylon with or without a color? What does the color have to do with the way it sews? Machines are designed to use many types and weights of thread. That’s what all the dials and such are for isn’t it? So if a machine doesn’t seem to like a certain type of thread could it be operator error? Just asking that’s all.
Bette
Anita, I started my quilting with a Viking Sapphire, later added a Juki TL2010Q, and finally a Viking H Class. I’m one of those people who reads my manuals from cover to cover, and I keep them handy as a reference to adjust a machine when I need to. I never would have believed that some machines “like” certain threads better than others, but gosh, it’s the truth! Depending on the thread, no matter how much adjusting I do, the machine just doesn’t want to do what I’d like it to. As for invisible thread, only my Viking H Class seems to like it with no fuss at all, regardless of brand.
Anita
Thanks Bette, I keep all manuals too. I see your point but I still don’t understand why having a color makes a difference even though it happens.
Shar
I use monofilament for stabilizing only, especially when there are multiple colors to sew over. But I also use Bottom Line in the bobbin for many projects as it usually always works with whatever you have in the top. I’m not sure if anyone else mentioned that it might be good not to use hot irons on the nylon.
Roseline
I have only tried Sulky on my Janome, went ok but definitely not my favourite notion! However it is great for invisible hems!
kkfboise
At the last stages of quilting Jacqueline de Jonge’s Black Beauty pattern. I ended up doing the quilting in the reverse order because I thought I could get by without a lot of ditch quilting. I stitched a serpentine down the middle of the sashing strips that divide the New York Beauty blocks. I free motioned with light pink or green aurifil in some of the printed background and NY beauty blocks. It just looked TOO puffy with the wool batting. By this time I decided it wasn’t going to be “judged” but my grandaughter would love it, so I turned it into a learning experience and went with invisible thread in ESS. (every stinkin seam) I had all the types you mentioned + some madeira and looked up recommends. It said that nylon was a little less shiny so since some of the inner circles are a solid black batik, I went with the .004 nylon with white, pink or green masterpiece or aurifil in the bobblin and to my utter surprise I had FUN doing it. I freemotioned with the BSR. (on my 790) I veered a few times to the high side and wasn’t always IN the ditch but I am so pleased with the result.
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Thanks for sharing! What was your favorite?
Anita
I use Superior Monopoly very fine reduced sheen matte finish. The package doesn’t give a weight. I use it only in the top and only to stitch in the ditch to stabilize quilts before freehand quilting. My hand is not as steady as it should be when doing SID work and often the quilts I receive are not pressed well with flip flop seams. The monopoly minimizes any jumps out of the ditch. I use the clear for light color fabric and smoke for dark color fabric. I never have to adjust the tension when using the monopoly and rarely have it break.
Donna Sereda
I’ve used Superior Monopoly with good results in my Janome 8900, but I have to say that my new favorite is Wonderfil’s Invisifil, which is a 100 wt polyester that comes in many beautiful colors. I’m now eager to try Superior’s similar product. I’ve found that, in general, Superior, Wonderfil, and Aurifil all make excellent thread!
Heartland Honey
I too have a Bernina. Mine is an 830e and it HATES invisible thread. I’ve tried both nylon and polyester. I’d really like to find a thread that will blend in/disappear when FMQ on scrap quilt blocks. I’ll look online for MicroQuilter and give that a spin.
Thank you for the heads up on something new to add to my thread stash 😀
sunnysewsit
My 830e likes Harriet Hargrave’s own brand of invisible thread, so when I want something that doesn’t show up much, such as stitch in the ditch, that is all I use. I think her site is treadarts.com — not sure.
Barbara
I have only been quilting for about 6 years, and have used invisible threads from the start. I have tried both YLI nylon and Superior and Sulky monopoly. I prefer the Superior in both clear and smoke, depending on the fabric or appliqué color. I have 4 Baby Lock machines (including a Tiara) and a Janome, and have not had a problem with any of them. I do prefer using invisible in the top rather than in the bobbin though. The absolute best advice I can give when working with monopoly in the top is to loosen your top tension a LOT –all the way to zero If you have to, which is what I usually do. This will balance out the top and bottom tension and you won’t be pulling up your bobbin thread to the top of the quilt sandwich. It won’t stretch the monopoly thread either. Second, don’t use invisible in both the top and bobbin. It is almost impossible to get a good lock stitch. I got this advice from Superior Threads. Third, use a size 10 needle. Fourth, try using a Thread Director to make sure the thread is unwinding flat from a spool and not twisting over the top. I use monopoly all the time for ditch stitching and appliqué. I’ve used it for free motion when I first started out, but prefer the look of a cotton or poly thread. I use both Superior Threads (so Fine 50, Fantastico, Magnifico & Bottom Line). I have tried Invisifil but am not a fan. Even treating it like a fussy monopoly, it always breaks with FMQ. I’ll try the Micro Quilter. My new favorite FMQ thread is Glide. Wonderful thread! Beautiful colors & sheen, slips through my machines like butter, and never ever breaks. I recommend it highly.
Keysha
I have used monofilament thread successfully, but it took some time fiddling at the machine to get it right. I have used Mettler Transfil, Superior Threads MonoPoly, and my favorite which is Harriet Hargrave Invisible Nylon Thread by YLI. Whatever thread you use, be sure to thread your machine using the Thread Director Spool Pin Adapter which allows the monofilament thread to feed smoothly through my Bernina 8 Series machine.
DebbieW
I use Aurifil or Superior’s monopoly with 60 wt poly in the bobbin for ditch work and appliqué. I have never had a problem with this combo in my machine. I think this is another method that you have to try and play around with; you and or your machine may or may not like it. Experimenting is fun!
June Neigum
I think they have improved on the invisible threads from 30 years ago. I remember using it then and I did not like it. I had a hard time threading the needle and it was “Kinky”. That spool lasted fore-v-e-r. I have been using Sulky invisible and have found no problems except my eyes and the needle. Both my Viking and sitdown Martelli have not problems with it.
Joni
I too have used Superior’s Micro Quilter thread, although my experience was very different. Although I loved the look of it, my machine (HQ Sweet Sixteen) was not happy with it. I contacted Superior and they were most helpful in putting me in touch with a quilter who used it regularly and she gave me some tips to try. I tried them and though it was better, I was still getting frequent breaks (instead of every 10-20 stitches, it went to approx. 100 stitches and then would break). I tried different size needles, different bobbin thread, Do you have any suggestions for making this thread stitch properly? I really do love the look of it and have not given up on it but it is frustrating to have frequent breaks.
Lynda
I use MicroQuilter quite a bit (and love it) but had trouble with breakage on my last project. It turned out to be a rough spot on my bobbin casing. Once that was replaced, everyhing was back to normal.
Suzanne
I’ve used monofilament only a few times, once with my 20-year old BabyLock when trying to hem a chiffon overskirt and recently with my new Brother Dreamweaver when making a wall hanging. My old BabyLock got mad and threw up, so I gave up and used regular thread. The wall hanging was a gift with a very different design on either side so it could be flipped based on the season. I used invisible thread in both the bobbin and upper thread of my Dreamweaver, inserted a metallic needle in the machine and it purred! My quilting was a very simple large meander but the quilt looked great, I don’t remember why I chose to use a needle made for metallic thread but it worked. Unfortunately, the monofilament thread label had peeled off the spool so I don’t know what type it is. (Not very helpful, am I?)
I plan on using it again when quilting a piece with multiple bright/dark colors rather than constantly changing thread color but as mentioned by someone else, I’d never use it on a baby quilt as I also believe it could be dangerous.
You have a wickedly funny sense of humor – I love it!
Carol Gillen
What a timely post. I ran into the Superior folks at a show recently and they recommended the Microquilter. I ADORE it. What I really love is if I am doing an all over pattern and there is a lot of contrast between the fabrics, I can use a neutral gray or taupe and it doesn’t stand out on either the light or dark fabrics. I also feel it does not have any of the stiffness that always turned me off about invisible threads. I don’t always prefer the quilting to be the focal point and this thread is AWESOME for that!!! My local shops don’t carry it, but I order from Superior directly online!!
Norma
I use Mettler Transfil in clear or dark in my Janome 8900. I only use it to stitch in the ditch for stabilizing before free motion quilting. I use the walking foot and have no problems with breakage. The thread is hard to find so I will check out the Superior thread at the Road to California quilt show next month. Love your humor. It reminds me of the jokes that I hear from my husband when I use invisible thread.
Paula T
As a machine technician, I have comments on this topic. If you are, as recommended, using a regular thread in the bobbin, you can always use your embroidery bobbin case for this quilting. The embroidery bobbin case is set from the factory with a slightly tighter tension which will pull the top thread under the sandwich. The tighter tension keeps the bobbin thread from showing on the top. If you don’t have an embroidery bobbin case, you can tighten the tension on your bobbin case by using your tiny screw driver and tightening (clockwise turn) the screw about 1/8th of a turn. A better option would be to purchase an embroidery bobbin case as a second bobbin case so you are not messing with the bobbin case tension every time you switch threads. The embroidery bobbin case is marked by the manufacturer, so you will be able to differentiate them. Different manufacturers mark them in different ways. As an aside, early embroidery machines only offered one bobbin case and taught the sewist to adjust the tension. That did not last long. A second bobbin case is most likely a standard part of embroidery machine accessories. If you are using your invisible thread in the bobbin, please consider using either regular thread or embroidery bobbin thread which is a very fine thread. Monofilament threads either melt or stretch. Either way, the INVISIBLE thread is very difficult to find and remove from the innards of any machine.
Personally, I have not found a need for it in my quilting life…yet.
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Thank you for your perspective!! Very helpful!
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